Shallow water wave

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shallow water wave

(Also called long wave, Lagrangian wave.) An ocean wave with its length sufficiently large compared to the water depth (i.e., 25 or more times the depth) that the following approximation is valid:
where c is the wave velocity, g the acceleration of gravity, and H the water depth.

Thus the velocity of shallow water waves is independent of wavelength L. In water depths between 0.5L and 0.04L it is necessary to use the more precise expression

See deep-water wave, gravity wave.

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