Surface gravity wave

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surface gravity wave

A wave that propagates, typically, on the surface of water under the influence of buoyancy forces.

In water of uniform depth H, the dispersion relationship is given by squared frequency
ams2001glos-Se81
in which k is the wavenumber and g is the acceleration of gravity. In shallow water, when the wavelength is much larger than the fluid depth, the waves are nondispersive; the dispersion relationship is then
ams2001glos-Se82
in which phase speed c = (gH)½. In deep water the waves have the dispersion relationship
ams2001glos-Se83